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Sanfensuo Hot Spring: Gateway to Adventure! (Jianianduan Hot Spring and Danda River Post 1 of 2)

Updated: Apr 27


 
 
 

Index

 

Sanfensuo and Jianianduan Hot Spring (Danda River) Area Map


"'I almost died over the weekend!' It was a message that stopped everything..."

Posts in this series:

  1. Sanfensuo Hot Spring: Gateway to Adventure! (三分所溫泉) - Intermediate - Advanced

  2. Jianianduan Hot Spring: A Remote Adventure at the Dead Center of Taiwan! (加年端溫泉) - Intermediate - Advanced

  3. Or, check out The Map Room's growing collection of Hot Springs in Taiwan!

Hot Springs in Taiwan Master Map




Introducing this week's adventure:

Taiwan's Sanfensuo Hot Spring: Gateway to Adventure!


Sanfensuo Hot Spring is an exciting, challenging, and beautiful adventure travel destination in the heart of Taiwan. Though often seen as just a stop-over on the way to the more famous Jianianduan Hot Spring, it's so much more than that! Though not as remote and difficult t reach as its more famous bigger brother, Sanfensuo is a truly worthy member to the exclusive club of intermediate and advanced hot springs and river tracing destinations in the Danda River and Junda River area!

 

*Please note that The Map Room participates in the Amazon Associate Program, and other affiliate programs, and may earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.


IMPORTANT UPDATE:

There was a typhoon in late 2023. In early 2024, a group went to see if the hot spring had been affected. They were unable to enter because of this massive boulder which as of the time of this update was blocking the way just before the danger zone. Without specialized gear it is impassable.




 

The Entrance Area

 

Lamin and David pose for a pic at the trailhead


 

"I almost died over the weekend!"


It was a message that stopped everything. I had heard that Jianianduan Hot Spring was a challenge worthy of advanced river tracers, but when Lamin, my friend at Funventures Taiwan sent me that, he suddenly had my attention.


Parking at the Danda Forest Road Trailhead can be crowded on holidays
Walking down from the Danda Forest Road trailhead
The trailhead / entrance to Danda Forest Road

"What?!?! What happened?!" was all I could manage. He told me the story, how he had almost drowned at the entrance to the canyon just before Sanfensuo, and a single hiking pole had been all that had saved his pack full of gear - and his life. "I'm fine, but I need some help!" he continued. "I have to get to Jianianduan Hot Spring!"


Dave and Lamin set off on our second, successful attempt to reach Jianianduan Hot Spring

Once he had told me about it, I was hooked. I was going on an expedition to Sanfensuo and Jianianduan, and I was going to get Lamin past that obstacle!


David looks up at Taiwan's Danda Forest Road (台灣丹大林道) at the beginning of the river trace

I began looking into all the paper maps, blogs, and websites I could find, constructing a detailed map of all the reported GPS points and key landmarks I could. A lot of the information was out of date, though, so I knew this was going to be a real adventure!


The Valley

 
River tracing along Taiwan's beautiful Danda River Valley (在台灣的美麗丹大溪峽谷溯溪)

It was during this initial research phase that I first heard of Sanfeusuo Hot Spring (三分所溫泉). If there was only scattered, outdated information about Jianianduan (加年端溫泉), then the same was doubly true of Sanfensuo! "What's this other hot spring half way to Jianianduan?" I asked. Both of us knew a bit by this point, but neither really knew all that much.



"Three days," I continued. "That's what it's going to take us to pull this off. "Let's try a weekend, I think we can do it in two!" said Lamin. Sucker punch - he knew my weakness for a challenge and, eventually - against my better judgement - I let him talk me into it.



We planned for the first available weekend and started our first of two team attempts to reach Jianianduan. It went very well at first - in fact, it was even easy! 4 wheel drives go all the way up the first part of the trace to the canyon where Lamin had had his close call But we knew it couldn't last...


4 wheel drives go all the way to the first Danda River canyon, so the track is usually easy to follow
David fords the Danda River

Soon, the easy river crossings (above) changed to deep, difficult crossings like in the pictures below.


River tracing in Taiwan is a fun adventure!

Still, it was low, winter water levels, and aside from a few of the crossings, most of the way was easy going. "Definitely not a place for beginners!" I said. Everyone agreed about that!


Getting fresh water along the way
Driftwood scattered along a bend in Taiwan's Danda River
One of the many nice campsites along the Danda River before the canyon section
We thought this cliff face looked like the secret entrance to Ali Baba's cave. Unfortunately, 'Open sesame!' didn't work...

We saw a few colorful spots along the way, but found no hot spring activity before Sanfensuo.


Another riverside campsite
Lamin crosses the Danda River (丹大溪)
Beautiful blue skies, mountains, and think white clouds reflected in the river


Twin Waterfalls

 

There was a lot of unique and beautiful scenery along the way. These twin waterfalls were different from most others I had seen.



The Short Cut

 

After a few hours, we came to a really interesting place. There was a fresh water source falling down the opposite river bank (above), and then a short cut that looks like it may have been an older channel of the river long ago (below).


The entrance to the short cut (above, below)

We took a relaxing break there and decided that, while the back of the channel was DEFINITELY not safe for tents, this forward section might actually be a nice place to spend the night some day! Soft sand, a fresh water source, and a really unique look and feel, combined with what looked to be a safe distance from rockfalls, made it seem really tempting.


David takes a break inside the safer(?) first half of the short cut
The exit from the dangerously rockfall-prone back half of the shortcut


Going Deeper...

 
Lamin loves to goof around!
NOT a hot spring, unfortunately...


The Fork

 
The confluence of the Danda and Junda Rivers

Not too much further upstream we came to the confluence of the Danda River and the Junda River (郡大溪). We turned left (roughly southwest) and followed the Danda towards Sanfensuo and Jianianduan. The Junda River to the south / right goes to Yibahou Hot Spring (伊巴厚溫泉), but that was an adventure for another day!


Turning left (southeast) along the Danda River towards Sanfensuo and Jianianduan Hot Springs

When you reach this point, the water level suddenly gets a lot more manageable. We had it a lot easier from here on until The Danger Zone at the canyon just before Sanfensuo!


An old stairway at the confluence of the Danda and Junda Rivers

Danda River Canyon

 

It wasn't much longer until we reached the end of the road - literally! The truck tracks had so far been pretty consistent along the way, but they ended just inside the first canyon.


The canyon campsite just before The Danger Zone

"This is it!" Lamin suddenly said when we got to the campsite at the start of the first real canyon we had seen. "This is where I almost died!" Just ahead the valley suddenly and very abruptly turned directly into a slot canyon. We decided to take a lunch break in order to challenge it well-rested and fueled up.


David takes a lunch break before entering The Danger Zone. Beware of drowning here!
The first slot canyon, just before Sanfensuo Hot Spring

After a bite to eat, it was finally time to enter The Danger Zone! Into the canyon we went, and I was ready to finally get a look at it up close and in person!


David, Dave, and Lamin at a chance meeting with another group of river tracers

Now, you're probably ready to hear how Lamin almost drowned, and how to stay safe in this spot. But before that, I have to introduce Dave. In the end, Lamin and my first attempt at Jianianduan - when we tried to do it in two days - failed because, well, it turns out it really, really does need three! We got close, but had to come back later, along with our friend Dave, on a second, successful attempt as a group of three. He'll come into the story more later, though...


Lamin approaches The Danger Zone in the first slot canyon

No sooner had we started than we came to this small, unassuming looking waterfall. We didn't let that fool us, though - this was THE spot, and we already knew all too well that it was REALLY dangerous!


The beautiful, blue waters of Taiwan's Danda River Canyon

THE DANGER ZONE!

 

IMPORTANT NOTES FOR GETTING SAFELY PAST THE DANGER ZONE

  • The Map Room is personally aware of at least two people who have almost died here during the 2023 season alone, and that's before April. Take this seriously!

  • There is a STRONG whirlpool in front of this short waterfall. So...

  • ...getting up the left side and avoid the waterfall all together is the ideal solution.

  • One group told us they had dragged in a log to use like a ladder to climb up the depression visible on the left (river right) side. We didn't do that, and it was impossible to get up, so instead...

  • ...I swam up the left (river right side) with a floatation device and a teammate standing by with a rescue rope. I then climbed up the left (river right) side of the waterfall and put a rope down (see photos and details below).

  • IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: I am a STRONG swimmer with a lot of experience, and I still took major safety precautions! Do this at your own risk!

  • If you DO get sucked into the whirlpool, the standard advice (we are NOT offering advice, only passing on what has been given to us) is to dive deep under water and let it push you out from beneath.

  • We later met another tracer who got stuck at this spot and only escaped by using the above technique, so it is confirmed to work at this spot at least under certain circumstances, some of the time.

  • Again, The Map Room is NOT advising any of this - if you do this, it's at your own risk! We are passing on what we know in case you find yourself in this, or a similar, dangerous situation. Be prepared!

 
Strong eddies form a dangerous whirlpool in The Danger Zone

I left my big backpack behind, inflated my smaller waterproof pack as a floatation device, and told Lamin to wait with the rescue rope ready just in case. At first, I tried to get up the smooth spot to the left, but it proved surprisingly difficult. I considered climbing up Lamin like a ladder, but didn't want to put him back into the same area where he had so very nearly come to a bad end.


Strong eddies form a dangerous whirlpool in The Danger Zone

Lamin had told me that the area just in front and to the right (river left) of the waterfall was a whirlpool, and that's how he got stuck He had been unable to get out for several hours, but finally managed by using a hiking pole to push along the side of the rock face. He was lucky to escape and, after that, decided (quite wisely) to turn back and wait for another day - and today was that day!


Using a rope to pull the gear, and my team mates, past The Danger Zone

I swam up the left (river right) side, being sure to stay close to the rock wall. Fortunately, I proved able to get through, and from there I was able to climb up the left (river right) side of the waterfall, come around, and put down a rope to pull the backpacks, Lamin, and later Dave, up the side, avoiding the whirlpool.



And that was it - we had done it! We had passed what we did not as yet know would turn out to be the most significant obstacle of the entire trace to Sanfensuo. After that, though the slot canyon had a few more challenges, we ended up getting there without any more real difficulty.


The first slot canyon, just past The Danger Zone
 

"Sky, water, tree, and stone mixed and melded in a wild kaleidoscope, dazzling our eyes as we passed them by."

 

Danda Canyon Waterfall

 

Inside the canyon we came upon this beautiful little waterfall / water slide. We stopped for some pictures and a bit of fun, and then it was time to continue onward.


A small, but beautiful, waterfall in the Danda Canyon
Lamin climbs the waterfall
Lamin and Dave passing the waterfall area on our second (successful) Jianianduan Hot Spring expedition

The Deeper Canyon

 

Once we passed The Danger Zone, the whole canyon started to change. At first it was pretty...



...then beautiful...



...then STUNNING!


Lamin stands silhouetted against a beautiful sunset just before Sanfensuo Hot Spring
Dave passes through the stunning Danda River Slot Canyon just before Sanfensuo Hot Spring

There were a couple of somewhat tricky parts, but our fears of truly difficult or dangerous sections still ahead proved unfounded.



Sky, water, tree, and stone mixed and melded in a wild kaleidoscope, dazzling our eyes as we passed them by.


David stops to take it all in
You never know what you'll see out here!
A bulldozer or tank tread washed into the canyon by some catastrophic typhoon

The Campsites

 

The canyon soon began to broaden out, and soon we came to what looked like an ideal camp site. In fact, I later came across a blog post showing a group back in 2019 camped exactly here!



As nice as the spot was, though, we had done our research. We knew that Sanfensuo Hot Spring was just up ahead, and were also planning to push all the way to Jianianduan to camp that night.



We crossed the river just above the campsite (see above), passed through a natural corridor (below), and arrived at Sanfensuo.


Camping at the Sanfensuo Campsite on our second expedition - this time on purpose!

The campsite we found was ideal, and right next to the old and new hot springs (see below). And, though we did not plan to stop here on our first trip, we ended up having to turn back from what would prove to be the single most dangerous and difficult obstacle of the entire expedition later that evening, so we ended up spending the night here anyway.


Sanfensuo Hot Spring Campsite as viewed from above

If you're wondering what could be worse than The Danger Zone, well, we'll tell you ALL about it - but that will be the next post! Meanwhile, let's take a look at the surprisingly good stand-alone destination that the Sanfensuo area ended up being, and why we chose it for our base camp on the second expedition.



OLD Sanfensuo Hot Spring

 
What's left of the OLD Sanfensuo Hot Spring (and why we didn't bother with it...)
What's left of the OLD Sanfensuo Hot Spring (and why we didn't bother with it...)

So, first off, the elephant in the room: The old Sanfensuo Hot Spring (三分所舊溫泉) is an absolute disaster! The outcrop is still there, but all it is is a series of drizzles coming down from the rockface near the campsite. It's possible to fix up if you really want to, but you will have to bring pipes and a tarp and be willing to spend a lot of time and energy putting it back together again. But why bother with any of that, when you could just visit...


NEW Sanfensuo Hot Spring

 
The main outcrop of the new, riverside hot spring at Sanfensuo (before we built it up)

...the NEW Sanfensuo Hot Spring (三分所新溫泉)? That's right - as of April 2023, there is a series of outcrops right along the riverside just below the campsite. The locations couldn't be more ideal - and the temperature is great!


David and Lamin at the new Sanfensuo Hot Spring

We decided on our second trip that this hot spring was simply too amazing to pass up, so we spent a few hours and built it into a really nice place to have a soak.


David enjoys the new Sanfensuo Hot Spring

It took all three of us working together, but with our trusty titanium pots doubling as shovels and Dave there to help, we constructed this beautiful pool.


The new Sanfensuo Hot Spring

I decided to go all out and built an adjustable water inlet to regulate the temperature. Without it, it was just too hot - but with it we could adjust the inflow for just hot enough at one end and comfortably warm at the other. It seemed almost a shame to build it so close to the end of the season, and we hope it won't be completely washed away this year, but leaving it untouched would have simply been a crime.


Dave (avove) and Lamin (below) enjoying Sanfensuo Hot Spring after a lot of hard work
Another hot spring outcrop just a little further up river

There are at least two other outcrops that we did not build up, including this naturally formed (or... left over from a previous year?) one a bit upstream. Both had potential, but the one we made was by far the hottest and strongest of the three. They are still there, though, just waiting for you and your friends to go dig them out and build them up to their true potential!


The Water Source

 

Well, we're just about at the end of the story for today, but before you go, we need to talk about water. Of course you could use the water from the river if you want, but with all the chemicals washing down from the massive amount of hot springs upstream, we decided it was worth an extra 10 minutes' walk up river to this side stream to get fresher(?) water.


A Formosan sambar deer (rusa unicolor swinhoei) watches warily from a cliffside cave as we pass by
What still lies ahead? Check out part 2 to find out about Jianianduan Hot Spring!

Well, that's all for this time, and now you know all about Sanfensuo Hot Spring and the lower reaches of the Danda River - but that's all just the beginning. Make sure to check back for part 2, and see what still lies ahead for Dave, Lamin, and I on the way to finally reaching Jianianduan Hot Spring (加年端溫泉)!


 

THE NITTY-GRITTY

 

Sanfensuo and Jianianduan Hot Spring (Danda River) Area Map



IMPORTANT UPDATES ABOUT THE AREA (2023):


  1. The landslide lake and waterfall beyond Sanfensuo / before Jianianduan no longer exist.

  2. The new Sanfensuo Hot Spring, along the riverside, is hot, big and wonderful!

  3. The old Sanfensuo Hot Spring (on the hillside) still exists, but it's a nasty mess and not really worth bothering with as long as the new one is there.


IMPORTANT NOTES FOR GETTING SAFELY PAST THE DANGER ZONE TO SANFENSUO

  • The Map Room is personally aware of at least two people who have almost died here during the 2023 season alone, and that's before April. Take this seriously!

  • There is a STRONG whirlpool in front of this short waterfall. So...

  • ...getting up the left side and avoid the waterfall all together is the ideal solution.

  • One group told us they had dragged in a log to use like a ladder to climb up the depression visible on the left (river right) side. We didn't do that, and it was impossible to get up, so instead...

  • ...I swam up the left (river right side) with a floatation device and a teammate standing by with a rescue rope. I then climbed up the left (river right) side of the waterfall and put a rope down (see photos and details below).

  • IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: I am a STRONG swimmer with a lot of experience, and I still took major safety precautions! Do this at your own risk!

  • If you DO get sucked into the whirlpool, the standard advice (we are NOT offering advice, only passing on what has been given to us) is to dive deep under water and let it push you out from beneath.

  • We later met another tracer who got stuck at this spot and only escaped by using the above technique, so it is confirmed to work at this spot at least under certain circumstances, some of the time.

  • Again, The Map Room is NOT advising any of this - if you do this, it's at your own risk! We are passing on what we know in case you find yourself in this, or a similar, dangerous situation. Be prepared!


GPX file 1 of 2: Sanfensuo Hot Spring from Parking - The Map Room 停車場到三分所溫泉-地圖寶庫.gpx

Sanfensuo Hot Spring from Parking - The Map Room 停車場到三分所溫泉-地圖寶庫
.gpx
Download GPX • 241KB

GPX file 2 of 2: Sanfensuo Hot Spring to Jianianduan Hot Spring - The Map Room 三分所溫泉-加年端溫泉-地圖寶庫.gpx

Sanfensuo Hot Spring to Jianianduan Hot Spring - The Map Room 三分所溫泉-加年端溫泉-地圖寶庫
.gpx
Download GPX • 113KB




GPS for the TRAILHEAD (PARKING): 23.78693, 121.01068






Check out the Map Room Members' Area for more maps, GPX links, and other members only perks!

Skill level:

Sanfensuo:

Intermediate to advanced

Jianianduan:

Advanced


Length of hike / trace (PARKING LOT TO SANFENSUO):

Roughly 12.5 km

OUR TIME: We took about 5 hours from the parking area to the Sanfensuo Hot Spring Campsite and about 4 hours coming back out.

IMPORTANT NOTE 1 - Though I had a ludicrously heavy pack this time, I'm an extremely fast and experienced hiker.

RECOMMENDED TIME: We recommend most groups plan a full day to get there and start in the morning. You may have extra time, but then you can enjoy the hot spring.

MPORTANT NOTE 2 - Remember to take care when entering the canyon, and make sure your bags and gear are highly waterproofed!


Length of hike / trace (SANFENSUO TO JIANIANDUAN):

Roughly 4.5 km

We took about 4.5 hours from Sanfensuo Hot Spring Campsite to Jianianduan Hot Spring, and about 2:40 coming back out.

IMPORTANT NOTE: This includes lots of time getting past the rapids (see above) and other difficult obstacles. Be sure not to underestimate the time needed for any but the most experienced and advanced teams when passing these difficult obstacles!


Water sources:

There are plenty of water sources along the way (see map, GPX, and above). You could also filter the main river water if you're not too concerned about what comes out of the hot springs.


Gear and provisions:

River tracing gear (see below), plus HEAVILY WATERPROOFED provisions and equipment for an overnight stay. Helmets essential, rope highly recommended (Sanfensuo) or essential (Jianianduan). Life jackets essential for weak swimmers. More advanced canyoning gear would be an asset.


Sun protection:

Yes - you will be exposed to the sun most or all of the way.


Sanfensuo:

Possibly for children 12 or 13 years old at least, but with STRONG caveats: First, children must be in shape and DEFINITELY experienced in the outdoors, capable of swimming, and ready for more advanced destinations. You will have to get them past a number of deep crossings with heavy water flow even during the 'dry' season. Use extremely careful judgement on this!


Jianianduan:

Probably not... I personally would recommend strongly against it.


Dog friendly:

Before the canyon: Maybe... as long as you can get your dog over multiple river crossings that are hard even for many humans. Short of that, well, you'd probably better just leave Fido at home.

Into the canyon: You think your dog is coming here? You've got to be kidding me!

Sanfensuo: Yeah, that's funny. Oh wait... you're serious?

Jianianduan: What are you smoking? I mean, unless you're coming in via personal helicopter, in which case, why are you reading this at all?


Camping /overnighting options:

There are so many! Check the map, GPX, and above. Just before the canyon, and at Sanfensuo Hot Spring, are the best. After that, if you have what it takes to get your gear over the many, significant obstacles in your path, then you can camp in the Jianianduan area. There are no safe campsites in between Sanfensuo and Jianianduan to the best of The Map Room's current knowledge.


Remarks:


Parking:

2 wheel drives can get to the parking area. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should 2 wheel drives try to go into the river!!


Water:

See above and below


Notes about tracing clothes and gear:

Helmets are essential once you move into the canyon. If it's winter, be prepared with wetsuits and other warm gear. This place can be unbelievably cold, even for people like me who grew up in serious snow! The hot springs are a false comfort, as they won't keep you warm on the actual trace itself. Summer is much better, but likely to have much higher water levels as well, so it will probably be difficult or impossible to pass.


Notes for hiking:

Clothes:

Regardless of the hike, it ALWAYS pays off to have appropriate hiking clothes! These should be clothes you don't mind getting dirty and/or messed up. Pants, shirts, socks, and underwear should all be quick wicking to get sweat off of your skin and quick drying to get it off of your clothes. For these reasons, you should NEVER wear cotton hiking! Sports pants and a sports shirt are a good place to start, but hiking pants have many advantages. A bandanna, headband, or other light cloth for wiping sweat is also advisable.


River tracing gear and provisions (for basic not requiring rappelling and rock climbing skills and gear):

  • Clothes: Should be ok for swimming and getting dirty/torn, protect from scrapes. Quick drying, non-cotton, close fitting. UV reflective for hot traces, wetsuit for colder traces.

  • Boots: Neoprene or other river tracing specific boots (not shoes, NOT rubber or fishing boots!) to prevent blisters. High tops to keep stones out, soles to provide good grip and prevent slipping. I prefer felt soles for extra padding, especially after prior injuries. Some prefer alternatives which prevent organisms from being transferred between various streams and rivers.

  • Helmet: Designed for rock climbing.

  • Backpack: Waterproof. IPX 8 rating (protected when immersed in water over 1 meter / 3 feet) recommended.

  • Rope: Non-climbing rated, floating rope (that does not absorb water and get heavy) with knots is helpful, but NOT for doing serious climbs. Use ONLY for pulling weaker swimmers through more challenging stretches of water, and perhaps helping with scrambles up short sections of difficult terrain. For advanced climbing or rappelling, get advanced climbing rope, gear, and training!

  • Life jacket: If you are not a strong and confident swimmer.

  • Phone case: IPX 8 rating (protected when immersed in water over 1 meter / 3 feet) recommended.

  • Water filter or other water treatment options.

  • Waterproof headlamp or flashlight. IPX 8 rating (protected when immersed in water over 1 meter / 3 feet) recommended.



The Map Room recommends Fenix headlamps for high-quality, durable headlamps for hiking and river tracing (Amazon affiliate link*).

  • Lighter (always!)

  • Optional gear: A bandanna, headband, or other light cloth for wiping sweat is also often useful when you are not fully immersed in water.

Drinking water:

Choose water from a fast moving, clean source. This kills certain parasites, like giardia. Check upstream for polluting factors (dead animals, droppings, etc). Look for signs of pollution (vehicle tracks, lots of footprints). It's best to filter, and possibly either boil or otherwise treat it as well.




Important river tracing safety notes:

  • Strength and water levels of rivers change with rain, seasons, and other factors.

  • ALWAYS check the weather in advance of a river trace. If there is rain upstream, it is not advisable to go, due to the risk of flash floods.

  • If it has rained recently, rockslides are more likely. If the sun then comes out and evaporates recent rain, they are more likely still. Wear a helmet, and be sensible!

  • Stopping to rest in rockfall areas, under rock overhangs, or near sheer cliffs is not advisable due to the risk of rockfalls. Look for a wider, open area with less steep rock walls.


So now you're ready to go! Get out there, enjoy nature, get wet, and have an amazing time!


 

Loved this article? Make sure to check out TMR's growing collection of hot spring articles!

 

All information on this page is intended for reference only. Preparing adequate food, water, and gear for your adventure, as well as following local rules and laws are, of course, your own responsibility! Always make sure that you check the weather for outdoor destinations, be careful and sensible for enclosed spaces like tunnels and bunkers, and bring a lighter - you never know when it could save your life! Now... get out there and have an amazing time!

 


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